Trailer coupler maintenance

You should make it a habit to check the tightness of the tongue located inside your trailer coupler. The coupler is the device used to attach your trailer to the ball on your tow vehicle. The tongue is located by laying on the ground and looking up underneath the coupler. You will see the tongue, it rests under the bottom edge  of the ball when the trailer is secured to the tow vehicle. Over time, the ball will eat away at the top of the coupler on the inside. Using grease on your ball will slow the wear, but won’t end it. As the wear continues. the gap between the ball and the tongue of the coupler will increase and cause slop between the two components. The slop between the two components can become sever enough for the trailer, while in transit to dislodge its self from the tow vehicle and cause you a huge problem.  Commercial guys and gals should really pay attention to this.

Lay on the ground and in most cases you will need a 3/4″socket or wrench. Turn the nut clockwise to tighten the nut. The nut is a compression nut so it will be very stiff. Don’t be alarmed , it is made this way so it won’t work its self loose. Tighten the nut 1/4 turn and check the locking mechanism for firmness. Keep doing this a 1/7″turn at a time.  What you want to achieve is a trailer coupler lock that either won’t lock or is very firm. Once you reach this point, back off the nut 1/4 turn until the motion of the coupler lock is smooth. The tongue should now be right up under the bottom side of the ball and not touching the ball. Through continuous use the coupler will wear out and need to be replaced. You will see it start to wear through the top on the outside of the coupler. If you get to this point, take your trailer to a reputable trailer dealer and have the work done professionally.

Don’t take chances when so much can be involved!

Be safe out there!

Selecting a Generator Size

Selecting a generator size.

If you are thinking of adding a generator to power an air-conditioning unit to an existing trailer or planning on ordering one soon from a trailer dealer.

A 13,500 BTU air conditioning unit will draw 13.5 amps on initial start up. Check the amperage on the unit you are thinking of using. This will help you in determining the size generator to use.

The 14″x14″roof vent whole is the exact size hole the roof a/c units need to drop into the roof. First you will need to brace the roof on each side of the whole that the a/c fits into. Fabricate a bolt in roof cross member or have a repair facility weld some roof x members into place.  You are also going to need the 110 volt power line running from the a/c box to the 30 amp breaker box installed in your trailer.  If you are ordering this option the factory will hide the wiring behind wall panels. If you are installing on a trailer you have now, you will need to run conduit or tear the trailer apart and maybe give a facelift appearance.

If you install an air conditioning unit on your trailer (13,500 BTU) you will need a minimum of a 5500 watt generator to start that a/c unit. This is just the initial draw and not the running amps needed to cool the trailer. It is the initial start up that draws the most power.

If you install 2- 13,500 a/c units you will have to start them one at a time as not to overload the generator. Each generator will draw 13.5 amp on initial start-up. If you are planning on starting 2- 13,500 BTU A/C units at the same time, you will need in excess of 7000 watt generator.

Always calculate the energy in amps needed to run the equipment in your trailer. The last thing you need is not enough power to accomplish your job.